These vagabond sails are longing to stray… to New York, NY

Timing the currents for the East River & Hudson River are important. Particularly when you’re looking at a 3 knot current that could either be turbo-boosting you down the river or knocking you back up… I was thrilled to be back in the greatest city; there really is an electricity in the air. The cultures, the food, and most of all the people. We anchored overnight by the Throgs Neck Bridge.DSC_0046 DSC_0052 DSC_0055 DSC_0069

The next morning we motored down the East River then up the Hudson. We caught the slack before the ebb tide (about an hr past slack) which gave us that amazing 3 knot DSC_0071powerboost on the East River. First bridge was the Throgs Neck designed by Othmar Amman in 1961 & built to relieve traffic congestion. The second bridge we went under was the Bronx WhiteStone Bridge constructed in 1939 also by Othmar Ammann.

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approaching the city

 

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tv, recliner, and a waterfront view…

 

The 3rd main bridge we approached is the DSC_0105RFK Triborough Bridge (Robert F Kennedy)opened in 1936 and funded by the New Deal. It began construction on Black Friday 1929 and was redesigned by…. you guessed it Othmar Amman; his new design saved millions and allowed for the project to continue onward.

 

Fourth bridge (below) is the Queensboro Bridge:DSC_0106

And I thought the Roosevelt Tram was pretty neat-o

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And you’re in luck, I got tired of taking pictures of bridges, so I skipped the Williamsburg Bridge. And instead became fascinated by buildings!

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and now my favorites; the Manhattan Bridge and Brooklyn Bridge! The Manhattan bridge was opened in 1909 and had the big hitter architect Leon Moisseiff as its mastermind

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AND THE BROOKLYN BRIDGE construction began 1863 and the bridge opened 1883.The towers are made out of limestone and granite.

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Coming up the Hudson to 79th Street Boat Basin:DSC_0163 DSC_0171 DSC_0184 DSC_0187 DSC_0192

Running into Mamaroneck has never been so good

A cold front kept us cooped up for a few days in CT. Turns out we prefer sailing in nicer conditions as opposed to rainy ones. But behind the low Joaquinpressure system of rain was this little cat 4 storm, Joaquin, gaining strength and hitting the Bahamas and moving forward/ northerly, easterly, westerly….. really to anyones guess. This had us looking at safe havens to park the boat… just in case it came flying our way. Our good family friend John Stoffel and wife Bo told us to stop shuffling our feet and get on over to Mamaroneck Harbor Orienta Yacht Club stat. So we did.

We were able to fill up on water, food, and propane. Propane can be a pesky trip so we were really grateful. Mike was fighting a cold and I was limping after running 6 miles

DSC_0006and re-injuring the ball of my foot. I *think* I’ve finally learned I’m not meant to run long distances. So sickly Mike & wobbly Kirsten found a Starbucks to burrow into for the day and used all the free wifi and all the electricity to recharge all the devices. Again, we were IMG_6749grateful.
 

 

Here we are (below) cheering to all the good sailing trips and all the bad ones that ended up alright. Us with the good-ole Eldridge.

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our amazing hosts visiting Gaia

 

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Orienta Yacht Club, autumn colors starting to show

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You know the phrase ‘there are two kinds of sailors. Those who have gone aground and those who will.’ …. I had always disliked this phrase. Because I was above this phrase… I had never been aground and I had no intention of doing so; to infer otherwise was nonsense to me. After admitting this to the reader, I’d like to tell you a change in regard to the above statement. I have been aground and now welcome all those who have not yet been aground to jump over the line and join the party. BUT in my defense, I was following captain mikes direction despite my own recollection of the terrain being too shallow for Gaia  to wander into. There was little concern because we made a soft sand landing on a rising tide. We were able to reverse out of the situation. (Thank you NEW propeller for the extra boost). So just behind the red nun where there’s a faint circular whirl of water….. yeah, that’s where we hit Mamaroneck but at least we filled up on all provisions & had excellent company!

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Kirsten

 

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Old Saybrook, where the fish are extra jumpy

We were going to spend a few more days reveling in Block Island but there was a weeks worth of rain in the weeks forecast and with the only good wind to bring us into the Long Island Sound being on a Monday… we left early.

DSC_0250 En route we were pleasantly surprised to make friends with the local navy submarine (of Groton possibly?).DSC_0270

 

 

 

 

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And we timed the current perfectly for Race Point and got a 3 knot turbocharge! We flew into Old Saybrook and settled into a free mooring field and very well protected from the prevailing Northerly winds.  I’ll let the pictures do the talking…

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The anchorage  was a shallow protected marshland and during low tide all you could hear was the jumping of fish flopping out of the water. It sounded like rain from below. There goes the peace and silence.

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And then there were these jerks! Amazing hunters but loved to try and perch themselves ontop of your newly installed windex. …you guessed it… one of these guys broke our windex.

 

Block Island Maze wins again

We sailed to Block Island from Newport. Not much to report aside from the usual unusual Mike & Kirsten-ism; my over-exaggeration of waves and Mikes sudden awareness that If Gaia is gaining on another vessel…. we can race them (and he goes from a wine and cheese cruising mentality of ‘we get there when we get there’ to barking commands ‘Trim the gennie! Edge up the traveler windward! We got em!’).

Our race to BI

DSC_0117There were 4 foot seas and rounding the Northern tip of Block Island was, as always, a welcoming view. There’s a shallow spit of land that curves out like an arm from the Block Island bluffs that are even more beautiful from the top. We anchored in the salt pond, which has a VERY narrow cut of water that funnels into the harbor.

DSC_0172It was my third time letting out the anchor, which can be, as I learned, a delicate process of lowering at the right moment and letting the boat rest to get your bearings. Mike tied different colored string on the anchor rode every 10 feet so you can see how much rode you have sitting out. This is a GREAT idea and I highly recommend it to anyone anchoring…. But do note that over time the first 80 feet becomes coated in mud and the old neon colors before are brown. So when Mike asked me how much rode we had out half way through… I dunnno…( I guess I need to practice counting or something).

 

 

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Julia and Amy ventured out to the great BI of RI! Our friends still remember us! And they brought beer!!! Saturday morning meeting Julia & Amy was the first time Mike & I came ashore. I had forgotten how timeless and close everything was for walking distance. A 15 minute walk and we met them from the ferry ride over. Our first order of business was to get some serious boat napping & relaxing in, afterall, they did take the first ferry in to BI. We then had ourselves a classic BI beachday. Frisbee, beer, meandering, beach. The day ended in a wet dinghy adventure to cocktails at the infamous ‘Oar’ and somehow… about 4 hours later… we emerged for another dingy adventure across the great pond.

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Sunday we made it our mission to find the maze. The maze is for lack of words, really neat.

DSC_0208It’s an intricately woven network of grassy paths that lead you to the BI bluffs, a few ponds, beaches, and always seems to end and begin in private property to some extent. P.S.I have never gone into the maze and not found myself lost at some point. The larger the group, the better the confusion. With a happy go lucky crew of Amy, Julia, Mike, and myself…. This was by far the closest we have ever come to not getting lost. We did, however, manage to miss their expected ferry back home… but nbd. We were all in BI.

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Again it was bittersweet to see more friends come and go.

 

 

 

 

 

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man with red hat parks boat on rocks

Newport

Day 4!

DSC_0054Two days ago we pulled into Newport Harbor after a comfortable but a little slow 40nm day from Onset to Newport.   Our friend Justin got a good chunk of The Martian read on the bow
beneath the spinnaker as we glided at 4-5kts westward into Rhode Island and
past the enormous mansions.

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The wind for the passage was out of the north east but it was fairly light, peaking at around 14kts mid-morning but then diminishing to 8-12kts for most of the day before dying in the evening.  Since we were going west the wind was coming from behind us and was too light for our normal sails to fill properly and propel the boat.  These are spinnaker conditions!

Gaia has an old asymmetrical spinnaker from a prior owner – I have no idea of it’s history, but it’s at least 10 years old.  But it hasn’t been used much, and aside from some color bleeding & rust stains, it works pretty well.  It has a sock which is a big fabric tube that slides down over top of the sail when it’s not in use, this lets us easily hoist the sail to the top of the mast before it fills with air.  Once the sail is deployed, the sock gets bunched up at the top of the mast.  When we’re ready to collapse the sail, we can pull the sock down to collapse the sail and make it easy to recover.

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I love flying the spinnaker – it means it’s a peaceful calm day and spinnaker runs are some of the most enjoyable sailing in my opinion.  I haven’t used the spinnaker much on Gaia in all the years I’ve owned her, but now that we have a new feathering propeller, the boat is vastly more capable of making meaningful progress in light wind (more on this topic in a later post).

Yesterday we spent the day in Newport Harbor, then took a RIPTA (Rhode Island’s bus system) bus to Providence (for $2 each way!) to see a favorite band, Lord Huron.  It was an excellent show and we didn’t get back to the boat until around 2am.

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Lord Huron in Providence, RI

Today we’ve got an easy sail to Block Island, only about 25nm.

Departure!

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Finally!  finally finally finally!  We’re off the dock, it’s been a long slog of boat project on top of project.  Kirsten & I quit our jobs right before our wedding in early July and for much of the time since then it sure hasn’t felt like we’ve been unemployed.  But all the hard work is finally behind us and we’ve shoved off the dock.

Our first goal is to make it to Newport, RI in three days to catch a bus to Providence, RI to see a favorite band perform – Lord Huron.

Leaving Boston this morning was bittersweet, but made easier by a wonderful send-off party a few days ago and a good friend Justin joining us for the first couple days.

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Our first day of weather and the immediate forecast is perfect, moderate north-easterlies & sunny warm skies.  Today we covered about 45nm, from Boston to the Cape Cod Canal, then through the canal to Onset.

 

 

Justin becoming a pro at our GPS

Justin becoming a pro at our GPS

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All went well on our first day, we got into Onset shortly before sunset as planned and were greeted by a beautiful and auspicious first sunset.

Good at traveling not Goodbyes.

It’s 6 days before we leave Boston and Mike decides to replace the entire steering cables. I know it needs to get done… but to wait 6 days before we want to leave is where I begin to wear my defiant look of ‘Good grief Mike! You wait this long!’.

Edson is our manufacturer in this project and let me just take one second and extoll the greatness of Edson…. Not only is Edson Corp the original manufacturer from 1979 but they have been around making steering mechanisms since 1859! Put that in your pipe & smoke it GE Corp (GE is about 40 years behind the game of Edson)! Okay so they’re still around that’s great , we can get replacement parts and it’s distribution is in Mass…. Mike you’re luck is astounding.

I felt like we had to reflect on what we were doing and soak it all in…. but in all the last minute trips to Home Depot, “final” storage runs, and dozens of last minute fixes… it just felt like another 10 hour day of boatwork no big deal.

When people commented on how excited I must be for the journey, I did however, feel a pang of sadness or at least the stark perspective of my reality. It was not going to be happy-go-lucky all the time. It occurred to me, I’m going to be leaving all of THIS! I had already left a safe and happy job. I had no secure income and no idea of what future work was to come. I was about to leave the most amazing crew of lively climbers, hikers, sailors, bikers, artists, runners, kayakers, yogis, programmers, soccer players, musicians, and partiers. Okay, I’ve painted a fairly bleak picture… oops.  I was uneasy about having this sense of loss upon the brink of an amazing journey. I’ve never been one not to dive head first on a journey partly because I had never created a home, a community built on years and years of good friends, trips, and familiar bars where everyone seems to know your name (queu music, you know the tune). In all my preparation over the past years, I always dreamed of the places I’d see. It was only now, days prior to departure, when I was face to face with the people and places I’d leave did it hit me.

I might travel far to seek what I need, but I always return home to realize where it really is.” – Unknown

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Thruholes -it’s always the one you least expect

One day I closed a thruhole before leaving for a long hiking trip. I had never done this before so Mike explained the safety reasoning & where all the thruholes were on the boat. He explained, if a pipe directly connected to a thruhole were to fail (aka break) & we were gone, it would potentially allow for the boat to sink. I immediately googled thruholes and read this little tidbit of information “A three inch diameter hole twelve inches below waterline can emit 177 gallons of water per hour (gph)…”. I was horrified to realize someone had intentionally put holes in my boat. I understand how silly and ignorant I was but back then this information was revolutionary to my fear of living on a boat. Proof that ignorance is bliss. A week later Mike left for a business trip. This left me on Gaia, on a mooring, by myself, for a week (can you feel the impending drama building???). I tell ya, I surprise even myself at how many things I found to keep me up at night. My Dad would always joke saying ‘leave one foot on the ground when you sleep, just in case…’ . I’m embarrassed to admit I wasn’t that far away from trying it – I mean WHAT IF the bilge pump broke and the VHF radio didn’t turn on, AND the dinghy was stolen…..

Fast forward a boat season or two…..

We hauled Gaia out at Admirals Hill. And while others could slap an undercoat of paint on or polish the hull over the course of a few days, Gaia always seemed to become a semi-permant resident in whichever marina we were being hauled out. This haul-out was no different. This seasons haul-out was dedicated to thruholes or “seacocks”. Mike replaced 5 thruholes, and filled in three we deemed unnecessary, and together we rebeded one stubborn thruhole… (fun story there).

Kirstens brief overview…..

  • First step; choosing the thruhole: underwater thruholes shouldn’t be plastic, it’s more expensive but go with the bronz (do I need to remind you how many gallons of water can get through a 3 inch hole?). Plastic, as you may guess, has a much easier breaking point and is more susceptible to extreme changes in cold.
  • Second: Once you have your replacement thruholes you’ll need to remove the old ones….. good luck with that. Items required for removing a thruhole are the expected screwdrivers, wrench, and angle grinder and unexpected but most productive was the blow torch.
  • Thirdly, clean out the hole, sand lightly around the edge and apply the 42Hundred. 42 hundred is your underwater sealant which retains a bit of flexibility to prevent against cracking.
  • To remove and close up a thruhole you’ll need to sand the edge at a slight angle so as to make it a beveled edge. After that it’s all about layering fiberglass carefully to reinforce the hole.

Overall, after hearing it so many times, I admit it…. It’s not as scary as you may think.

Last bit of this story is; Mike replaced and touched up every thruhole EXCEPT ONE (which was a lot). When it was time to put us back in the water the travel lift operator sat Gaia in the water and we eagerly jumped onboard to check for any leaks. “Looks good”, “looks good”, “looks good” rang back and forth between Mike and I as we checked each thruhole with headlamps. I thought we were in the clear and then we heard the bilge pump go off … crud. There was a leak somewhere. Mike shined his headlamp at the ONE thruhole he didn’t touch and sure enough that little bugger was leaking. We had an emergency haul out and we were put back on the stilts. The marina operator gave us one hour to fix it and get back in the water. There was a lot of cursing and blow torch action but we got it done like we always do.

Realizing the boat you have.

It had never occurred to me people lived on boats until I met Mike McLinn. And like anyone that opens your eyes to a new and exciting possibility that resonates with your interest and desires…… he became a kind of mentor. He also happened to become my climbing buddy, hiking friend, boyfriend, and, in due course, my husband.

We have been living on our 424 Pearson (42ft LOA (length overall) for over two years. Her name is Gaia and make no mistake, a slight against Gaia is slander against a good friend.

Over the last five years in sailing Gaia, I learned a few things from Mike, experience, and comparing her to other sailboats. Gaia is a ketch rig, so, double the fun with masts! It makes her interesting to sail and balance out the mizzen (smallest sail- in back) with the genoa (our largest sail that’s in front on the forestay). Jibbing with a ketch is also a bit more interesting because the mizzen sail can act against you in crossing the wind (if you’re not tactful enough). Ketch rigs tend to be heavier and more seaworthy, ideal for long distant passages in my mind. 424 Pearsons (ketch as opposed to the cutter/sloop design) also have a lower mast (51 feet), intended to fit under bridges “easily”. Another perk is our keel; it’s a modified full keel so our draft is only 5 feet for a 42 foot vessel (not too shabby). And did I mention how much water we can carry….. 170 gallons of water…. Let’s review: low mast, shallow keel, seaworthy vessel, with lots of water storage.

Over time, I realized something…. This boat was not meant to sail circles in Boston harbor.

It was then I began to appreciate the 3 large solar panels mounted on the davets and wind generator for power. I began to love that Gaia never smacked into forceful bounding sea swells the way that faster boats did with a flatter haul design. I enjoyed taking down the main sail just to see how Gaia would sail with just the geny and mizzen. At some point in those five years, I became a salty sailor.

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